The new cheongsam collections 

Two brands have recently launched their new collections.The Happy Cheongsam finally released new designs after a long hiatus, called “The Batik Collection”, on 7 November. The last time new designs were released was the Chinese New Year launch in January. I understand Ming, the designer and founder, has been busy as a first time mom.

This is a considerably smaller collection, with only four dresses. As seen in the pictures below, only the first design is significantly different from the rest. The other three are basically similar. Nonetheless, I have to say the design and juxtaposition of prints make for interesting combinations. On a whim, I asked Buddy which of the cheongsams is the prettiest and he pointed out Ïndigo. My sentiment exactly! 

The Neve




Sissae‘s latest cheongsam launch is called Allure. Other than the first picture showing an ultra mini dress, the rest are rather demure looking. The designs are of the classic cut, nothing really modern looking. Probably the collection is targeted for Chinese New Year.

Though I like the prints and embroideries on the Sissae cheongsams, which look really pretty and intricate, I have a beef with the sewing quality.  Take a look at the puckering seams on this jade green cheongsam below (it is the one with the Chinese lattice print on the front shown above). 

I was taken in by the print in the front view, but was put off by the puckering seams on the back which looks absolutely shoddy! In fact, if you look closely at the black and red cheongsams in the pictures above, you can see signs of it along the front seams as well.

The puckering problem is also seen in this THC design, Azura.


Recently I asked a very experienced designer/tailor about the puckering seam problem, and he explained that there are a few reasons for this. One, the designer/tailor does not understand the property of the fabric and hence not know how to handle it. Another possible reason is that the fabric was stretched too tightly when it was being sewn, and so puckering happened upon release. It is also a problem when the fabric is not stretched tightly enough.  I think the designers at both THC and Sissae should study and experiment on different fabrics.before embarking on the design process, as well as conduct more stringent quality check on the sewing. 


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